Rooted in food | terrific trifle | Food and cooking

Originally a way to use up stale cake, a trifle is a layered dessert consisting of sponge cake or biscuits (cookies) dipped in brandy or fortified wine, custard, fruit or jam and whipped cream. Almonds or other nuts are often used as a garnish or topping. Recipes date back to the late 1500s, but trifle became popular in 18th century England. It was a dessert that could be made in any house, from common to royal.

Fast forward to the colonial American colonies and the trifle becomes known as “drunken cake” and “drunken squire”. Notice the use of “drunk”. This is due to the alcohol used to soak the cake. Tipsy squire was a less fussy version of trifle, where the cake was cut or broken into pieces and then layered with other ingredients.

Another name for this dessert at the time was “the drunken pastor”. According to culinary tradition, the dessert was so named because it would draw many Sunday preachers to your house for an afternoon meal. That, as far as I’m concerned, is entirely plausible with this dessert.

The main difference between the English and Colonial American versions was the cake. English trifles used fresh cake, whereas our early recipes usually included biscuits or macaroons. Custard, almonds and candied fruit were used as layers. Many recipes from the era call for a syllabub filling, which is basically cream whipped with wine or cider (or lemon juice) and sweetened.

Although the trifle has a long history, modern versions are much easier to prepare thanks to ready-made foods. However, having a delicious dessert is worth taking the time to make cake, custard, and whipped cream (or syllabub) from scratch.

Trifle bowls are the traditional serving vessel for this drunken dessert. They are big and clear so you can see the layers. The recipe for the trifle itself can be varied. Follow these ingredient tips to create your own version.

• Cake layer: Sponge cake and ladyfingers are commonly used today. However, pound cake is a good substitution. Any type of cake – as well as brownies – is a good option. Store-bought cupcakes offer wonderfully sinful variations.
• Alcohol layer: Sherry is an alcohol commonly used for dipping cake. Port, Madeira and brandy can also be used. Use fruit juice instead of alcohol, if you prefer.
• Cream layer: There’s not much that beats homemade custard, and you can flavor it with lemon for a little spice. Pudding mixes of any flavor will also work if you don’t want to make your own. Mix a can of sweetened condensed milk with a container of whipped topping and pudding mix for a scrumptious shortcut.
• Fruit layer: fresh fruit, jams, preserves and marmalades work well. Use a combination of fresh and canned fruit for extra sweetness and fruit flavor.
• Garnish: Homemade or store-bought whipped cream is the most common topping for your trifle. You can flavor them with cooking extracts. Use fresh fruit and nuts on top of the whipped cream to give your trifle a final garnish.

With a little creativity and a few ingredients, you can create a trifle for your next party that’s sure to please a crowd. If you’re not up for it, make mini versions in custard cups for your family this week.